Lost Kingdoms Rediscovered:
Laos and Vietnam

January 12-31 2010

The neighboring Buddhist countries, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, also share a wealth of ancient sites, lush locales abounding with tropical flora and fauna, national parks sheltering endangered species, stunning traditional and French Colonial architecture all packaged with Asian graciousness. In this unique blend of temples, touring, arts and crafts, you will have an experience few travelers have encountered. 

Art and Cultural tour to Laos, Vietnam and Northern Thailand
Vietnam, a fascinating sliver of a nation enjoys a rich and varied history, stunning art and architecture, a justly famed cuisine and a wide-range of high-quality fabrics and crafts. Our trip is designed to expose you to the best of these elements in the comfort of elegantly designed boutique hotels and with a pace that is never harried.

Begin your trip in the bustling city of Hanoi—a hodgepodge of wide tree-lined boulevards, expansive lakes, remodeled French colonial palaces and villas, tranquil Buddhist temples and traditional Chinese-inspired architecture. We will explore the Old Quarter of Hanoi with local architectural experts. Each street in this area is named after the crafts that were practiced there, and to this day, still are. You will visit streets where the artisans both sell and make shoes, silk, lacquer, headstones, tin products, towels, fragrant herbs, lanterns, Buddhist statues and alters, and more. You will see a performance of the famed water puppets, visit all the most important sites and museums, and be informed about what you are seeing by esteemed local scholars. You will also experience the essence of Northern Vietnamese cuisine in lovely settings.

From Hanoi we travel to tranquil and placid Ha Long Bay, and take off for 24 hours on the gorgeous bay of granite outcrops. We travel with one of the best quality boats on the Bay, a wooden vessel modeled on the old Vietnamese court sailing vessels. Your cozy cabin is equipped with private shower, twin beds, fans and air conditioning (which will not be needed). All our meals, usually based on fresh sea food are provided. You will motor around unbelievable land and seascapes, and hop into motor boats to see it up close. You dock for the night in a lagoon completely ringed by sheer mountains with trees eking out a living on hanker chief-sized ledges. Magical!

Our next visit is the Imperial City of Hue, halfway down the country. Here we will visit the lavish Forbidden City of the last Emperor, visit the museum where the treasures from his palace are stored, and take a slow boat down the Perfume River to see two imperial tombs from the 19th century—huge complexes with lakes, bridges, temples, sepulchers, theaters and living quarters. During our stay in Hue we will also visit some important Buddhist temples, including the monastery of the famed monk Tich Nach Han.

Our final destination is an easy drive made overland via Danang, to Hoi An in Central Vietnam, designated a World Heritage Site primarily because it somehow managed to preserve its charming old town, reminiscent of 100 years ago. A river trading post only 4 kilometers from the ocean, Hoi An was once a thriving port with a large Chinese and Japanese population. Their influences on the architecture are stunning. Most of the buildings are two-story, with wooden balconies on the second. The interiors are made with dark wood, Chinese inspired furniture, Japanese inspired interior architecture, and Vietnamese floor-plans. The latter usually means a courtyard in the center and rooms opening off, for the maximum indoor-outdoor living.

There is an elegant Japanese bridge spanning a little tributary, but the Buddhist temples are the true hearts of the community and still look as they did when they were built. We will make this charming town our base for five nights, while we enjoy performances, take a cooking class, learn about local arts and crafts, and see all the most important sites in the outlying areas, with plenty of time to wander the old town, exploring the many houses, community centers and temples that are open to the public.

Laos, the sleepy little sister of Vietnam, is a landlocked country a quarter of the size of its neighbor, but sharing much of its history. Sparsely populated and heavily forested, the northern, mountainous area hosts farming communities of hill tribes, who also maintain homes along the Mekong and Nam Than rivers. The south is flat and more industrial. A poor country who only recently opened to tourism, it has the dubious distinction of being the most heavily bombed country in the world, thanks to the US government policies during the Vietnam war. The capitol city of Vientiane, and the smaller town of Luang Prabang, host numerous beautiful old French colonial mansions and monuments, in the process of being restored. Luang Prabang, arguably the most beautiful town in South East Asia, has such an abundance of architectural treasures the entire town has been declared a world heritage site by UNESCO. A fitting locale in which to end our journey.

Luang Prabang sits in the mountains in the north, just a short fight from Vientiane. The town is framed by two rivers, and hosts thirty two temples. The number corresponds to the rather large monastic population. Every morning at 6:00 they begin a walk around town from their respective temples, alms bowls swinging open to receive sticky rice, money, and whatever the local women have cooked for them. The completely silent procession of saffron robes and women sitting on the sidewalk giving merit is breathtaking.

During our five-night stay in this unique locale, we will explore the stunning architecture with local experts, visit the old palace and museums, tour the vast array of tranquil temples, visit artists and crafts people, and view performances of traditional dance and music. You will explore the countryside, enjoying a beautiful short trek to the gorgeous Kuangsi waterfall, visit local villages, and take an excursion by boat up the Nam Ou river to the Tamting cave, housing thousands of Buddha’s brought by devotees.

If shopping is your cup of tea, all our destinations are shoppers paradises, and in South East Asia, your money goes a long way. Hanoi is teeming with artists and galleries—an astonishing number of painters, as well as artisans and crafts people. Our time there will give you an overview of quality and what is available. While visiting HaLong Bay you will have an opportunity to purchase and array of beautiful pearls farmed by the locals. Hoi An is known for its speedy tailors, with uncanny ability to copy photographs of the clothes you want and also produce some pretty amazing silk. There are also some cobblers who hand-make made-to-order shoes in a variety of styles. Hue has a little bit of everything, and is a good place for last minute gifts. Laos produces the most beautiful and reasonably priced textile weaving and needlework in Asia, and is also noted for wonderful silver work: jewelry, statues and plate ware.

“I thought both guides were terrific; I really appreciated the depth of each of their knowledge and availability, the differences in their personalities, and their assistance at the times we needed it. I really enjoyed everywhere in Vietnam we visited and can't think of anywhere we went that I would have left off the itinerary or anything I wished we’d seen that we didn’t. Highlights for me were Ha Long Bay, meeting with the professor in Hanoi, watching the inauguration in Hoi An, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the performance at the Citadel in Hue, etc. Thanks again for everything.”
Ruby Grad, Portland OR, Laos and Vietnam, January 2008

Itinerary 2009

Monday January 11: Transit—Arrive at the airport to check in for your midnight flight.

Tuesday January 12: (All meals) Depart the USA from New York, LA or San Francisco aboard Tai Pei-based Eva Airways. Cross International dateline and lose one day, which is made up on your return. 

Wednesday January 13: Arrival at Hanoi (D) Arriving at midday at Noi Bai airport in Hanoi, you’ll be met and driven to your hotel. You’ll have time to relax after your journey before a “Welcome Dinner” at a restaurant in a restored French colonial building. In the evening, you’ll have tickets for a performance of traditional Water Puppetry, an art form unique to northern Vietnam, and a good, lighthearted introduction to its rural culture. You’ll spend the night in Hanoi.

Thursday January 14: Hanoi (B) You’ll have the entire day to explore Vietnam’s capital city. You’ll begin our day with the visit to Ho Chi Minh’s impressive Mausoleum and the creative and adventurous museum next door which documents his life. After lunch you’ll also explore the excellent Ethnology Museum for an overview of Vietnam’s 54 distinct ethnic groups. Later in the day we meet with a noted professor and author at his office where he lays the foundation for our understanding of Vietnam, its history and culture.

Friday January 15 : Hanoi (B) The day begins with a visit to Hanoi’s Fine Arts Museum. After lunch we tour the Old Town, visiting some traditional houses and cyclo’s through the old town to the Big Market. You’ll also visit the Temple of Literature, dating to the 11th century, and fine piece of architecture itself. 

Saturday January 16: Hanoi/Ha Long (B, L, D)  After an early breakfast, you’ll leave for Ha Long Bay, one of the most spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Areas and the world’s largest marine limestone ‘karst’ landscape. There you’ll board your boat, a wooden junk built from the model of the old Vietnamese court vessels with sails, a wide transom and rectangular superstructure, that will take you first to the busy World Heritage area and then to some of the less well-known grottoes and a spectacular Sung Sot cave. Weather permitting, you’ll be able to swim, fish, climb a hill (not a mountain!) for an overview of the Bay’s remarkable seascape. All your meals will be provided on board, usually based on fresh seafood, and you’ll sleep in a twin cabin with an private toilet and shower.

Sunday January 17: Ha Long Bay (B, L, D) Today relax and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of Ha Long Bay and our lovely boat. You can take an optional kayaking tour over the water and among the rocks, and enjoy an afternoon cooking class by the crew of our boat.

Monday January 18: Hanoi/Hue (B, L) You’ll spend the morning cruising Ha Long Bay, and venture into some of the sea level caves in a small sampan. Enjoy lunch just before docking around noon. Back in Hanoi we have free time before going to Hanoi Airport for our flight to Hue, where we are met by our local guide for central Vietnam, and check into our hotel for the evening.

For the more adventuresome of you, you can opt for the 5-day trip to Sapa described at the end of the itinerary.

Tuesday January 19: Hue/Hoi An (B) After breakfast, an all day tour of Hue. First you’ll visit the Imperial Citadel of Hue, where we will enjoy a performance of dance, music and theatre followed by a visit to the nearby Antiquity Museum. In the afternoon we visit Thien Mu, a tranquil pagoda in the banks of the Perfume River Pagoda, and then visit Emperor Tu Duc’s elaborate Tomb and also Minh Mang (1841). Our final stop is a visit to the monastery of Vietnam’s most famous living icon, the Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Han.

Wednesday January 20: Hoi An (B, L) After breakfast, you’ll be met by our guide and driven to Hoi An via the Hai Van Pass. The views from the top are excellent, you’ll be able to see Lang Co beach and the lagoon far below, and Danang spread out before you to the south. In Danang we stop for lunch, and also tour the Champa museum there, where statues from My Song are housed. After a stop at a local coffee shop for a taste of “Weasel Coffee,” travel on to Hoi An, a world Heritage site and an ancient trading port, once the largest in Indochina. Hoi An was a meeting point for many cultures that left their mark in the different architectural features of its wooden buildings.

The original traditional street pattern still exists, as does the quay that once welcomed ships from all over East Asia and beyond. Many remained there for months at a time, waiting for favorable trade winds to carry them home. You’ll have a guided walking tour of Old Hoi An, including homes, temples, market, neighborhood associations and workshops.

Thursday January 21: Hoi An (B) This morning you will enjoy a half-day gourmet cooking class with an exceptional woman who has created 3 of the most successful restaurants in Hoi An. She escorts you through the local market culminating in a 5 course lunch. After lunch you have a class in making traditional silk lanterns. In the evening, you’ll have tickets for a performance of Hoi An dance and music.  

Friday January 22: Hoi An (B) Early morning visit to the Ancient House for which our hotel is named, and the noodle production kitchen that supplies most of the towns kitchens. After breakfast, our day begins with a concert by the local dance and music company in Hoi An, followed by a chance to experiment with Hoi An’s traditional music on the mono chord, two-string and 4-string instruments, six string zither, drums and flutes. Afternoon is free to shop or continue to explore the ancient pagodas, temples and houses of Hoi An.

Saturday January 23: Hoi An//My Son/Hoi An (B) Early morning departure to visit the World Heritage My Son Sanctuary, once the spiritual capital of the Cham Kingdom that dominated South East Asia for nearly a thousand years. Its remarkable brick towers were badly bombed, but are still impressive, as is its remote valley setting in a quiet, richly forested area, bisected by a clear stream. Onsite performance by Champa ethnic dancers. You’ll be free in the afternoon.

Sunday January 24: Hoi An (B)/ Danang/Saigon/Vientiane After breakfast, transfer to Danang, where you leave for your flight to Saigon, making connections for Vientiane, the capitol of Laos. We meet our Laotian local guide, and are transferred to Novotel hotel. Dinner with folk dancing at a local restaurant.

Monday January 25: Vientianne (B) Begin our day with a guided tour of the National Museum for an overview of Laotian history. Then we embark on a city tour of Watt Pakeo, the original home of the Emerald Buddha, Anousavari (known as the “Vientianne arc de Triumph”) Wat Sisaket—the house of thousand graceful Buddha images, and the Pra Thatluang stupa, where the the relic of Lord Buddha is kept. Our last stop is a wonderful NGO that makes prosthetic devices for land mine victims. Then visit the colorful market with a wide array of woven silk textiles. Be sure to bring your cameras. In the evening we visit another restaurant that supports a training program for street children.

Tuesday January 26: Luang Prabang (B) Check out and proceed to the airport for our flight to Luang Prabang, Laos, a beautiful French-Colonial style World Heritage town registered by UNESCO. Check into our hotel in the ancient capital of the Lao kingdom, beautifully situated between two rivers, and surrounded by forest enshrined hills. Here time appears to have stood still, giving the visitor an vision of the old Asia. After checking into our hotel, a walking tour down the Mekong riverside, by the local market, and finally visiting the Wat Xieng Thong, built by the local king in 1560 and considered the most beautiful in Luang Prabang. Evening meal at one of Luang Prabang’s famed restaurants.

Wednesday January 27: Luang Prabang (B) Breakfast followed by a visit to the morning market to discover what the locals are buying, then visit the the National Museum housed in the former Royal Palace next door. The collection of sovereign artifacts and treasures reflect the richness of the Lao throne from the early Kings to last sovereign. Afterward we scale the Phousi mountain, climbing 238 steps, and providing an overview of Luang Prabang town. After lunch we visit a silversmith, then travel a short distance to a ethnic Hunan village of weavers. Evening performance of dance and music at the Royal Palace.

Thursday January 28: Luang Prabang (B) Morning we start early—a predawn walk in the temple district to participate in the daily ceremony to earn merit by giving rice to the monks who file down the street with their begging bowls. Return to the hotel for breakfast. Morning walking tour of the architectural charms of the Old Town with our guide to discover why this charming town has been declared a “living museum.” In the afternoon we visit several important local temples: Wat Visoun, a temple for the Vietnamese migrants, and Wat Ahman, where giant puppets representing the ancestors of the local people (Grandmother and Grandfather) are stored, and with interesting wall paintings of the Life of the Buddah, and Punishments of Hell.

Friday January 29: Luang Prabang (B) Morning excursion by boat up the Nam Ou river, one of the most beautiful in Laos. At its juncture at the Mekong river we’ll visit the Tamting holy cave, housing thousands of Buddha's brought by devotees. Following this, we continue on to Ban Shanghai distillation village, where they produce alcohol from sticky rice. Return to Luang Prabang for lunch by the Mekong River.

Saturday January 30: Luang Prabang (B, D) Breakfast, followed by an excursion overland to a beautiful short trek to the stunning Kuangsi waterfall. We have lunch there, then perhaps enjoy swimming in the falls. On return we stop at Ban Sangkong, a village making paper from mulberry trees. Evening meal in the home of a local family, noted for their excellent cooking, and a traditional Baci ceremony to wish you luck and happiness in the coming year.

Sunday January 31: USA (B) Depart Vientiane for our connecting flight to the USA. It is also possible to add on a 5 day, four night excursion to neighboring Cambodia to view the splendors of Angkor Wat.

Guide to symbols:
B: Breakfast, L: Lunch, D: Dinner

In all cases every effort will be made to fulfill all items listed on itinerary, although some substitutions may be needed. No one is required to attend each activity, but anyone who leaves the itinerary at any time, for any reason, is on their own.

Cost: $4776.00 based on two people sharing a twin or double-bedded room in three, four and five star hotels. Single supplement available.

Deposits/Penalties: A $350.00 refundable deposit reserves trip space. A penalty fee of $75.00 will be charged for all cancellations received in writing. After tickets have been issued airline penalties will occur. No refunds will be made after departure. Final payments are due 60 days prior to departure.

Trip leaders: Judy Slattum MFA (Art and Cultural Tour) has been organizing and leading study tours to Bali, South East Asia, Italy and Greece for 3 decades. She has written extensively on Balinese culture. Her book, Masks of Bali:Spirits of an Ancient Drama, is the definitive work on this topic, was featured in Time magazine, and has sold over 17,000 copies and has recently been reprinted by Periplus Editions. Madé Surya BS (Sapa Trekking/Hill Tribes excursion). While a graduate student in Economics at Udayana University in Bali, founded the Mountain Climbing Club, now boasting about 200 members. He has been organizing and leading study tours for 19 years and has assisted scholars and film crews in Exploring Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Greece and Italy. He has previously led many active tours, and remains a favorite guide and friend to former clients.

Airline Options: Participants may depart and return at any time. Participants are urged to sign up early and make plans regarding dates, as we are traveling during High Season. You may wish to opt for an upgrade to Eva “Evergreen Class.” The cabin is small and quiet, situated in the nose of the plane. The seats have a long pitch and recline with footrest and private armrests. You get priority check-in, and a pass for the VIP lounge in Tai Pei and San Francisco/LAX. These seats are limited and should be reserved ASAP. Current price for upgrade (which may change) is $557.00. Contact our travel agent, Wendy Simon at Pacific Harbor Travel, Santa Cruz (local calls: 427-5002 or 1-800 435-9463) for further details.

Terms and Conditions: In case of unexpected situations, the tour leader reserves the right to cancel or postpone any event. Festivals and special events will be incorporated into the itinerary as optional excursions. Any one who leaves the tour at any time FOR ANY REASON is on their own. There will be no refunds for missed tour activities and no substitutions.

Accommodations: Are based on double occupancy. We stay in the best 3 and 4 star clean, comfortable locally-owned hotels with private baths, cable TV, mini fridge, and large buffet breakfasts, some with swimming pools.

Call toll free 888-476-0543 or email for further information.
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